Thursday, June 10, 2010

My Beef With One-And-One-Half Story Houses

ReubensBeefI've lived in a one-and-one-half story house in Minneapolis for the last six years, and I feel like I've earned the right to complain about them.  My main beef with them is insulation and ventilation; they're a pain in the butt and they're expensive to get right.


There are two primary ways to insulate a one-and-one-half story house: traditionally, or with a hot roof.

Hot Roof

Hot roofs are actually pretty simple.  A hot roof will have foam insulation sprayed against the roof decking, and won't have any ventilation.  If a closed-cell foam is used, it will act as a perfect vapor barrier, and will prevent any air leakage.  Simple.  I'm a big fan of this method, and I even did it at my own house.
HotRoof
The problem with spray foam is that it's hideously expensive, and the installers need to have access to the roof boards; that means the attic space needs to be gutted before the work can happen.  If you're doing a big remodel, great... otherwise, it's just not practical.

Traditional

The traditional way to insulate and ventilate a one-and-one-half story home is to insulate right up against the first floor ceiling, the knee walls, the vaulted roof sections, and again at the second floor ceiling.  The diagram below illustrates this nicely.
Insulation Outline
The cold spaces shown above are all supposed to be ventilated.  The ventilation will help to keep these spaces cool during the winter, which helps to reduce the potential for ice dams at the exterior and condensation in the attic.  The illustration below shows one way to do this.
Ventilation Diagram
In this illustration, soffit vents are installed at the eaves, baffles are installed between the lower and upper attic spaces, and gable end vents are installed.  There are other ways to achieve a similar venting strategy, such as using a continuous ridge vent at the top section instead of gable end vents, but the main idea remains the same.




The problem with traditional insulation is that it's very difficult to retrofit an existing installation.  Some homes have access to all three of the attic spaces, while others don't have access to any of the attic areas - and there is never access to the vaulted roof sections between these attic spaces.  To get at these areas, it often involves gutting the upper level.  Sure, more insulation can easily be added at the knee wall attic areas, but that's just a fraction of the total heat loss that's occurring here.




With traditional insulation, attic bypasses also need to be sealed... and these houses have a ton of them.  Perhaps the largest bypass is the one that occurs right below the knee wall, which is illustrated below.  This area needs to be sealed off to prevent warm air from leaking in to the unheated attic areas.


Attic Bypass under knee wall
What this all boils down to: if you're buying a one-and-one-half story home that hasn't been properly insulated and ventilated, you'll probably have to gut your upper level if you want to correct it.


Oh, and another thing... these homes will often have just one supply and one return register from the furnace at the upper level; combine that with poor insulation, and you have a cool space in the winter and a hot space in the summer.


Oh, and another thing... they're prone to ice dams.


Oh, and another thing... no, that's enough whining for today.



Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Home Inspector Twin Cities

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Note: The diagrams in this blog entry came from www.nrcan.gc.ca.  I marked up the diagrams to help illustrate my points.

2 comments:

  1. Interesting point about the attic bypass - I just pulled down a few ceiling tiles to try and figure out why we've got water coming through the ceiling in our 1 1/2 storey here in Winnipeg and could instantly feel a cool draft coming through the exact spot you've pointed out in the diagram.

    We're disappointed about the recent leaks because we spent a lot of money last winter to have our attic spaces reinsulated (spray foam plus cellulose on the flats, spray foam plus batts on the knee walls) - all to try and fix the problem described here: http://homerenosetc.blogspot.com/2009/01/ever-wondered-what-condensation-in.html

    I thought the spray foam would create a sufficient vapour barrier to prevent warm air form getting into the cold spaces.

    Any advice on how to seal up the attic bypass areas from below? We'll have to gut the ceilings on the main floor anyway, due to water damage over the years (the tiles are covering up some pretty badly damaged plaster - obviously done by the previous owners in order to cover up the problem).

    Thanks for this post.

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  2. I should say that the re-insulation project was handled by a professional company - in that blog post I thought I might try to do it myself. I was so naive back then . . .

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