Bad Chimneys Don't Always Need Repair

Most homes in Minneapolis and Saint Paul are old houses with masonry chimneys.  When these masonry chimneys go bad (and they all go bad) the repair can be very expensive.  If you call up a chimney contractor to see what can be done about it, they'll tell you the chimney needs repair, just like an orthodontist will tell you your kid needs braces.  Repair is just one option. The other option is removal.



When chimneys are badly deteriorated, sometimes it just makes more sense to tear the chimney down below the roof line instead of repairing the section that sticks up above the roof.  The benefits of doing this are lower repair costs, less exterior maintenance, and less chance for leakage at the roof.  Chimneys are notorious for leaks, both through the top and at the roof flashing.

If you're thinking about tearing a chimney down below the roof line, the chimney must be located in the middle of the house.  If the chimney is located on an outside wall, the fix wouldn't simply involve removing the chimney below the roof line - it would require complete removal of the chimney, which might be cost prohibitive.  I counted houses around my neighborhood in Minneapolis (Bryn Mawr), and about three out of four houses has a chimney in the middle of the house.

To remove the chimney below the roof line, the chimney must also be abandoned, or only be used to vent gas appliances that are connected to a metal flue liner.  If the chimney is completely abandoned, it's a no-brainer; it's not doing anything, just get rid of it.

If the chimney is being used to vent gas appliances such as a furnace /  water heater / boiler, that vent will still need to penetrate the roof to carry the exhaust gases to the exterior.  Just make sure that all of the gas appliances are properly connected to the vent!

It used to be common practice to connect the furnace to a metal vent that ran inside the chimney, while the water heater would be connected only to the chimney, where it would use the annular space around the furnace vent to carry exhaust gases to the exterior.  If you see the water heater vent connector entering the chimney separately from the furnace or boiler, this is probably what is happening.  That's what you're seeing in the photo below - the smaller vent connector that I outlined in red comes from the water heater.

The diagram below shows the same thing - click for a bigger version.

If you have an installation that looks like this, you should have it fixed, whether you plan on tearing down your chimney below the roof line or not.  Allowing the water heater to vent in to the annular space in the chimney will allow the corrosive exhaust gases to damage the chimney walls, and water heaters usually don't draft properly when they're installed this way... but I digress.  More on this topic another day.  Back to the chimney.

If the chimney is removed down below the roof line, be sure to seal up what's left of the chimney inside the attic space, to prevent the chimney from doing what it does best - bringing warm air up!  If the chimney ends below the roof line, it will act like a huge attic bypass, allowing heat to escape in to the attic.  If the chimney is abandoned, seal off the top completely.  If the chimney is still used as the chaseway for a gas vent, seal off the area between the chimney and the vent with sheet metal, and use high-temperature caulking to make it airtight.

No more chimney maintenance!

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections – Email – Bryn Mawr Home Inspections

Forget Code, Bathrooms Need Fans.

For the last 800 years, building codes have allowed bathrooms to be built without exhaust fans.
Exhaust fans aren't even a requirement here in Minnesota!  This is a great example of how building codes are only minimum standards. I thought about this while doing a home inspection at a rental home in Minneapolis.   The outdoor temperature was about 45 degrees, and every single window in the home was covered with condensation, which was also dripping down the walls.



Oh, and there were no fans installed.

Bathrooms need exhaust fans to help eliminate moisture problems, plain and simple.  When people take showers and baths, moisture gets pumped in to the air.  During the winter, this moisture condenses on windows and walls, and often makes it's way in to the attic space through attic bypasses, where it will create frost.

Minnesota requires windows in bathrooms that provide a total glazed area of at least three square feet, and half of that must be openable.  The exception to this rule comes when a bath fan is installed that will exhaust at least 50 cubic feet per minute, or a continuous exhaust system such as a Heat Recovery Ventilator exhausts at least 20 cubic feet per minute.

The idea of someone actually opening a window on a cold winter day in Minnesota to help reduce moisture in the bathroom is ridiculous.   If you live in a house without an exhaust fan in a bathroom that gets used for showers or baths, install one.  Your house will thank you for it.

If you're going to install a fan, here are a few tips to make sure your house is happy with the fan.

• Choose a good fan. You'll want to balance noise level, performance, and price.  If you buy a cheap noisy fan, you probably won't even want to turn it on.
• Make the exhaust duct short. A proper exhaust duct will be as short as possible and take as few turns as possible.  The longer the duct and the more twists and turns it takes, the less air flow.  A fan rated for 80 cubic feet per minute (CFM) assumes the fan has no duct.  As soon as a duct gets added, the actual CFM goes down.  I've inspected hundreds of houses where there is barely any air flow at bath fan exhausts.  If the bath fan is located in the basement and the duct runs up to the roof at the second story, air flow will be pretty pathetic.
•  Insulate the duct where it passes through unconditioned spaces, such as the attic.  If you don't, moisture will condense it the duct, and might drip down and stain the ceiling. I once inspected a house in Richfield where the exhaust duct was uninsulated in the attic, and so much moisture had accumulated in the duct that it was completely filled with water!  The photo at right shows me holding my flashlight up against the duct - this is one of my favorite photos ever.  Click the thumbnail to see the full version.
•  Don't use a standard switch to control the fan. When a single switch controls the fan, people turn the fan on while in the shower or maybe after the shower, and turn the fan off when leaving the room.  The problem is that the fan doesn't run long enough to remove enough moisture.  A better solution would be to install a timer that runs for at least a half hour, or install a humidity sensing fan.

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections – Email –Minneapolis Home Inspections
RELATED POSTS:

• A Common Problem With Bath Fan Exhausts
• Kitchen Exhaust Problems

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs), Part 2

Last week I gave an overview of what GFCI outlets are for - the long and short is that GFCIs are life safety devices; they prevent lethal shocks.  This week I'll talk about the different types of GFCI devices, how to test them, what drives me crazy with them on home inspections, and what some of the newer features are.


The two most common types of GFCI devices are circuit breakers and outlets.  A GFCI circuit breaker gets installed at the electric panel, and protects the entire circuit.  This is a handy way to make sure everything on the circuit gets protected, and there is no need for individual GFCI outlets anywhere in the circuit.  The other type, which everyone has already seen, is an outlet.  The most common type of outlet is a duplex receptacle, which is shown below left.
 
One GFCI outlet can protect several other non-GFCI outlets when wired properly.  Every GFCI outlet has screws behind the outlet labeled "line" and "load".  The current coming in to the outlet must always be connected to the "line" side of the outlet.  If more outlets are going to be protected by the GFCI, they can be wired to the "load" side of the outlet.   Many houses built in the eighties will have the exterior outlets, garage outlets, and basement bathroom outlets wired downstream from a GFCI outlet in the upper level bathroom.  Today it's common for a GFCI outlet at the kitchen countertop to protect several other outlets.  This saves money.



A redundant way to wire  GFCI outlets is to wire one GFCI downstream from a second GFCI outlet.  This is wasteful, pointless, annoying, and it makes things difficult for the home inspector and anyone else that might trip the outlet, especially if the first GFCI outlet is hidden! Please don't do this.

GFCI outlets should be tested every month because they can go bad, and a defective GFCI outlet doesn't provide any life safety protection.  To test a GFCI outlet or circuit breaker, simply press the test button.  Here are the possible outcomes you can have by testing a GFCI outlet with the test button:

• Acceptable - The reset button pops and the power goes off.  The GFCI device is functioning properly.  Simply press the reset button to restore power.
• Unacceptable - The reset button doesn't pop.  This means the outlet is defective and should be replaced.
•  Unacceptable - The reset button pops but the power doesn't go off.  This means the line and load are reversed at the outlet. This should be corrected.  Newer "SmartLock" GFCI outlets that have a little lock symbol on the front have a built-in safety feature that prevents the outlet from getting energized if it's incorrectly wired.
• Unacceptable - The reset button is already popped, the power is off, and the reset button won't go in.  This can happen on the newer "Smartlock" GFCI outlets if they're improperly wired or the outlet has gone bad.
• Acceptable, but annoying - The outlet loses power when tested, but the reset button doesn't move.  This means someone wired the GFCI outlet downstream from a second GFCI outlet.  Shame on them.

Another way to test GFCI outlets is to buy a tester.  This is a great way to test standard outlets that are wired downstream from a GFCI device.  Just plug it in to an outlet and press the test button.  If the power goes out, the GFCI device is working properly.  If the power stays on, it doesn't mean the GFCI device is defective - sometimes GFCI testers won't trip GFCI outlets.  If this is the case, try the test button at the outlet.

Why do GFCI outlets go bad? I honestly don't know, and if anyone reading this blog can tell me, I'd be interested in hearing about it.  From my own experience, I've found that after a GFCI outlet has had a lot of power running through it, it will often fail.  For example, any time I'm working on a remodeling project and I'm running a bunch of power tools through a GFCI, it goes bad within about a month.  I've heard of home builders wanting to put all of their GFCI outlets on the inside of the house because there's this idea that cold Minnesota weather makes GFCI outlets go bad, but I haven't experienced that myself, and a study on GFCI outlets has shown that temperature doesn't have any effect.

RELATED POST:  GFCI Outlets, Part One


Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections – Email – Home Inspector Minneapolis

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs), Part 1

For this this week and next week's blogs, I'll be waxing on GFCI outlets.  I'll talk about what they do, why they're so important, what you need to know about them, and how to test the outlets in your own home.


First, a quick refresher. In my blog about reversed polarity outlets, I explained that there are two wires that conduct current - one get connected to the earth (grounded) and the other doesn't.  The grounded conductor should always be white, and is referred to as the "neutral" wire.  The ungroundedconductor is usually referred to as the "hot" wire, and it can be any color besides white or green, but it's typically black.  Because the neutral wire is connected to the earth, any time you're in contact with the earth and you touch an ungrounded wire, you'll complete the circuit and you'll get a shock.  The general, technical name for this event is a ''ground fault", because current is getting back to the ground in a way that it shouldn't (it's using you!).

Not all shocks are the same. Here's where we'll get in to a little more detail about what happens when a human comes in contact with an ungrounded(hot) conductor.

• No shock. If I could magically levitate and grab on to a ungroundedconductor, I wouldn't get a shock.  I'm not providing a path back to the earth, so the electricity doesn't have anywhere to go.  This is why birds can sit on power lines without getting a shock.  No ground fault.

• Small shock. If I were working on the second story of my wood-framed house, wearing rubber soled shoes, standing on the carpet, and then came in contact with an ungrounded conductor, I would probably receive a relatively mild shock.  The current has a difficult time traveling through my skin, through my body, through my shoes, through the carpeting, through the wood framing in the house, and eventually back to the earth.  I say 'relatively' mild because this has happened to me several times, and I'm still here to tell about it.  It still hurt like hell every time, and it's always dangerous. This is a ground fault.

• Severe / lethal shock. If I were holding on to the kitchen faucet with a wet hand and I touched an ungrounded conductor with my other hand, which was also wet, I'd probably get killed.  Having a wet hand will make it easier for electricity to pass through my skin.  After the electricity passes through my body, it has a very easy time getting back to the earth; it will pass through the kitchen faucet to the water pipes, which are directly connected to my electric panel.  This ground fault could easily be enough to kill me.

To prevent lethal shocks through ground faults, special electrical devices called Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters, or GFCIs, are required in homes.  If a GFCI device detects a ground fault, it will shut off (or 'interrupt) current within a fraction of a second.  It won't be fast enough to prevent a painful shock, but it's enough to keep you from getting killed.

GFCI devices were first required near swimming pools in 1971.  Today they're required in areas where lethal shocks are most likely to happen - typically at areas that are wet and have good contact with the earth.  These areas include the exterior, garages, kitchen counter tops, bathrooms, unfinished basements, crawl spaces, and outlets within 6' of laundry sinks, utility sinks, and wet bar sinks, among other places.  For an excellent one-page chart that lists all the locations and shows when the specific requirements went in to effect, click here.

That's enough information on GFCIs for this week.  Next week I'll talk about the different types of GFCI devices available, the difference between new and old GFCI outlets, how to test them, how they irritate me, and how to save money while installing them.

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections – Email – Home Inspector in Minneapolis

Top Ten Minnesota Home Inspection Defects For Old Houses

Top Ten Minnesota Home Inspection Defects

10.  Tree Branches Rubbing On The Roof Tree branches do a lot of damage to roofs.  Just think about branches rubbing on the roof all day long while the wind is blowing.  This adds up to a lot of damage.  Tree branches too close to the roof will also give squirrels, raccoons, and other pests very easy access to the roof.


9.  Double-Tapped Circuit Breakers Every circuit breaker in the main panelboard should have only one wire connected to it, unless the circuit breaker is designed for more than one wire.  Most aren't.  When two wires are connected to one breaker, this is referred to as a double-tapped circuit breaker.  Sometimes the fix for this defect is very quick and easy, sometimes it's a major project.


8.  Bath Fans That Don't Exhaust Properly I start my home inspections by turning on every fan in the house, and I make sure that air gets exhausted to the exterior.  I find a ridiculous amount of fans that make plenty of noise, but don't move any air.  The problems can be caused by disconnected ducts, ducts that aren't continuous to the exterior, blocked internal dampers, stuck external dampers, or kinked ducts.  A bath fan exhausting in to the attic is always the worst.  Every bathroom should have an exhaust fan.


7.  Missing / Improperly Located Smoke Detectors Smoke detectors should be present in a common area on every level and in every bedroom, and the installation instructions need to be followed.  I can't tell you how many smoke detectors I see tucked away in to corners - this is never an acceptable installation, because smoke won't get there fast enough.


6.  Missing Cover Plates Missing or broken cover plates at outlets and switches are shock hazards, period.  Common problem, easy fix.


5.  Improperly Wired Outlets Ungrounded three-prong outlets and outlets with reversed polarityare very common defects.  These are shock hazards.  You can check the outlets in your own home with an outlet tester that costs about five dollars.


4.  Missing Carbon Monoxide Alarms. Minnesota requires carbon monoxide alarms within ten feet of every sleeping room.  Lots of people put them in the same room as the heating plant; that's fine, but it's not required.


3.  Poor Water Management This consists of the same thing every time - negative grading and improper downspout extensions.  This is almost always the cause of wet basement and foundation problems.  The grading around the house needs to slope away, and downspout extensions should take water well away from the house.  Improper downspout extensions are worse for the foundation than no gutters at all.


2.  Missing Anti-Tip Devices At Ranges Ranges have been sold with anti-tip brackets since 1991, but it's pretty rare for me to find the brackets installed.  These are required to prevent ranges from tipping over, which could cause serious injury or death to a child.


1.  Attic Bypasses I find these all over the attic on almost every old house I inspect.  Attic bypasses allow conditioned household air to leak in to the attic space, and they can reduce the effectiveness of insulation by as much as 70%.


Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Minnesota Home Inspections

Should I Cover My Air Conditioner?

Summer is gone, fall is here, and it’s time to get around to all the fall chores – put up your storm windows, turn off the outside sillcocks, cover up the air conditioner… wait, scratch that last one.  Don’t waste your time or money installing a cover on your AC unit.  I've already seen people start to cover their air conditioners this year, but there's no need to.



Why do people even install air conditioner covers?  One company that sells covers claims that their AC cover “protects from dirt, hail, snow, ice, nesting animals, moisture, bitter cold, and harsh sunlight.”  Wow, that list makes me not want to go outside.  Let’s review those one at a time.

• Dirt - When the fan on an AC unit is running, air will be sucked in on all sides of the unit, and this is when most dirt and dust accumulates.  When the unit is just sitting dormant, outdoor contaminants don’t get sucked in.
• Hail - We don’t get hail during the winter here in Minnesota.
• Snow - Snow won’t hurt the AC unit.
• Ice - Ice won’t hurt the AC unit.
• Nesting Animals - I’ve never seen this happen, and I can’t figure out how it could.
• Moisture - C’mon, seriously?
• Bitter Cold – Get out.
• Harsh Sunlight – Ok, that’s enough.

AC units are designed to be installed outdoors all year 'round.  They are designed to hold up to the elements – they don’t need a cover.  The manufacturers have already taken things like ‘harsh sunlight’ in to account.  If you need proof, just check the web sites of some of the larger manufacturers, such as Rheem and Lennox.  They specifically say their units shouldn’t be covered, because the covers can trap moisture, which can cause damage to the unit.

If you want to keep stuff from falling in to the top of your air conditioner during the fall, just put something on top of it, like a piece of plywood.  While it seems a little laughable, even a makeshift cover like the one pictured below will work just fine, as long as you do something to keep it from blowing off.  This will keep debris from falling in the top of the unit, and it won’t trap moisture.  If you want something that doesn't look silly, install a very short cover.




Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections – Email – Home Inspector Minneapolis

How To Pass An FHA Inspection?

I get a lot of questions about FHA Inspections, and it's about time I sat down and blogged about it.  Here are the most common questions I get asked about standard FHA loans.  This information does not apply to FHA 203(k) Loans.

Can You Do The FHA Inspection? FHA loans do not require a home inspection, they require an appraisal.  The appraiser does this.  These are often mistaken for an inspection.  Home inspections are still strongly encouraged.

How Can I Pass The FHA Inspection? First, see above.  FHA appraisals require the appraiser to look for obvious defects with the house, but the appraiser never requires repair of these items - the underwriter does.  Trying to figure out exactly what might require repair is a bit of a guessing game, and often has much more to do with the people doing the appraisal and the underwriting than it does the property itself.  Nevertheless, here is a partial list of some common defects that get flagged:

• Chipping / Peeling / Flaking Paint
• Rotting wood
• Electrical outlets or switches that are defective
• Plumbing leaks
• Non-functional heating plant or AC
• Roofs with less than two years of life left
• Missing or badly damaged floor coverings
• Obvious structural problems

Do I Need A Home Inspection If I'm Getting An FHA Inspection?Again, see above.  FHA appraisals are not home inspections, and it's unfortunate that they get confused as such.  The FHA appraisal has nothing to do with a home inspection.

Do I Need An FHA Certified Inspector If I'm Getting An FHA Loan?No.  The home inspection is completely independent of the FHA loan.

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Minnesota Home Inspector